Sunday, September 20, 2009

14th to 16th September - Vang Vieng

So, 13 of us took a mini bus with 12 seats to Vang Vieng... We all got to know each other pretty well on that journey. Traditionally for this part of the world, it took us just over an hour and a half longer than expected to get to Vang Vieng from Luang Prabang and the driver tried to con more money out of us en route.... Fortunately mob rule and raised voices won out in the end and he took us to the town centre for no extra cost.

That evening we headed out to fill our bellies. That's when we came across an amazing character called Mama Lao... She was hilarious and took a bit of a shine to me I think.... My fault for being my normal loud self. Mama Lau became a good contact in Vang Vieng for us and we spent many meals at her restaurant.

We enjoyed a hearty supper and headed to the Sunset Bar for a few beverages. It's an interesting place with a small bar staffed by Westerners and huts with hammocks in dotted around. We talked until the early hours and managed to find our way to bed around 2am it seemed. It was raining and navigating the west, puddle ridden mud paths was certainly an experience.

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


On the 15th September, we all went tubing. Now for those not familiar with tubing, it's essentially travelling down a river using a tractor tyre inner tube as a vessel stopping at every bar you pass along the way. There's 15 bars in total... It was a little hectic.

We all got ourselves prepared for the unknown and headed to the first bar in good spirits. The river looked to have a fairly strong current to it and I have to admit to initially feeling a little nervous... We had a beer for dutch courage.... and a shot of some noxious liquid.. the sun had passed the yard arm after all...

Some of the guys immediately headed to the zip wire which seemed entirely to high for brave little me... I watched as some performed and others face planted their way into the river... There were collective groans and cheers from the river bank as brave warrior after brave warrior lived their fate... Pete, I hope you're feeling a little less winded my friend...

It was time to hit the water. It was surprisingly and thankfully warm. Not being the bravest in cool water, it took a little time to jump in but eventually I was in the convoy heading to the next bar. Another beer and some dancing later (as well as the obligatory shot) and we were off to the next bar. You have fleeting friendships when tubing. You chat to other groups and then see them at perhaps the next bar and not after that.

I finally made the decision to do the zip wire at the next place. Ok so it wasn't quite as high as at the first place but I still strolled up confidentally and headed on my merry way... I was nervous taking off from the platform but managed to do my self proud and avoid injury on my first attempt. It was great fun and I'm so glad I did it.

A few bars later and I was sliding into the water on a monster water slide. Then we got to the last bar... Now, there's a rule about tubing which is never to be the last at the bar you're in.... Guess what happened... oh yeah, muggins here was last man standing at the bar and all the tubes had disappeared. You pay a 4 or 5 pound deposit so I wanted to make sure I returned with the tube. That's dinner and two beers in these parts after all....

Emma fortunately said I could share her tube and we were going to see about stealing a tube back from some other poor soul. With the two of us on the tube I felt every undulation of the bottom of the river. It was quite shallow after all and I have bruising on my bum still from where I took a few hits in the shallower waters.

We got back to Vang Vieng and the Sunset Bar... People were there and tubes were in plain view. I'm not proud but grateful to say that we managed to sneak a tube out of there and I got my deposit back... Law of the jungle my friends...

That night was messy and the next day we all split up. Some of us went to the south of Laos and some to Vientiane... It was the end of a great few days with an excellent group of people and I'll never forget the times we had together.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

11th to 14th Sept - Luang Prabang

We found a guest house that could accommodate our battalion of people in Luang Prabang and it was surprisingly nice. In fact, I liked Luang Prabang a lot. The place was just big enough to entertain and small enough to be relaxed... Perfect.

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


We met for dinner and some drinks and I decided to sample the Lao Fondue. It was amazing. You get this barbecue thing which is shaped like a dome with a kind of moat at the bottom. It is placed on top of hot coals on your table and you get a basket full of salads and other greens along with a plate of meat. Also, you get a pot of stock. You cook the meat on the dome part and then fill the moat with stock before boiling your vegetables in the liquid. Amazing. It tasted so good....

The funny thing about Luang Prabang is that all the bars and clubs seem to close at 11.30pm. Everyone then goes to the bowling club which is the only place open until 2am. It's crazy. So, we decided to head to the bowling club. We were going to walk but then this local on a moped drove past and offered to give me a lift so I jumped on the back and we headed to the bowling alley. By the time the others got there, the guy who drove me was about 100 points ahead of me in bowling. I was suitably beaten... We had a good night and bowling was great fun... Elsa in particular got wonderfully excited with her bowling prowess.... so funny.

The next day everyone was feeling a little sore after the night before and we lazed around the guest house for a bit. We went out that evening to Lau Lau Garden and.... yep you guessed it... went to the bowling alley again. I got two strikes.... after that I lost my radar and embarrassed myself horribly... Still had a good time though... The beer lao goes down very easily....

On the Sunday, the guys decided to head to the waterfall but I wanted to spend some time on my own just checking out the town and updating my blog etc. I walked to a place called tea and books for breakfast and then walked around the town for a bit. I got to the market where I met up with Pete and we had a walk along the river where we got propositioned by 400 tuk tuk drivers before heading for lunch/dinner somewhere. We met up with all the guys at the guest house and then I went for a Lao Massage. Oh my god... it was amazing.. they really get their thumbs into you in Laos. I felt cracked and beaten afterwards but inherently good...

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


We had a chilled one that night and watched the football before heading to bed early.

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


A trip in a mini bus to Vang Vieng awaited us the next morning.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

9th to 11th September - Boat trip and Luang Prabang

The days seem to be flying past. Simon, OC and I took the slow boat from Chiang Khong down to Luang Prabang. It was a fun journey and we met a lot of very nice people on the trip. We now have a group of about 20 that we've been hanging around with since the boat trip and will continue to do so for a while.

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


The boat itself was basic to say the least. We left our guest house like sheep herded onto mini buses. They took us to the river where we got on a boat and headed across to Laos. Off the boat we then had to show our passports about 20 times to various people all claiming to be official. Filled out a whole raft of forms and finally we were packed, again like cattle, onto tuk tuks that took us to the slow boat.

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


The slow boat was peaceful but my arse hurt a lot after 7 hours of sitting on wood covered by a suggestion of a cushion. Ouch. The journey itself was cool though. We met Emma, Pete and Rory (UK), Tal (Israel), Elsa and Thomas (Sweden), Arwin and Martijn (Holland), Alex (US), Steff (Germany).

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


My Uno game was used a lot and we arrived at Pakbeng a good group of friends.

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


Pakbeng was messy as we had beer available in great supply... The next day the boat trip was a much easier journey. My arse was still numb from the day before so it was almost like I didn't feel the journey at all :) Although we had a series of interesting smells on the boat the second day. We were at the front of the boat lying on the floor which was surprisingly comfortable. Unfortunately, one of the drivers or assistants must have lived on a diet of dead dogs for the past week because the smells that were emanating from his arse were dangerously toxic to say the least.... Also, all the locals that packed on and off the boat seemed to be carrying recently caught cat fish which tend to smell a little bad after a couple of hours in the sun..... mmmm

From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


From Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang


We all got to Luang Prabang in great spirits and set about finding a guest house with 11 rooms available....

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

5th to 9th September - Pai and Chiang Mai

Wow, what an amazing place Pai is. It's a beautiful trip on the mini bus to Pai through winding mountain roads with visions of green all around you.

From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


I travelled with OC and Simon and we quickly befriended Matan (Israel), Gilad (Israel), Gilly (Israel) and John (Ireland) on the bus. We got to Pai in the early afternoon and set about finding somewhere to stay. OC had a tip so we went there and were pleasantly surprised. We stayed at a place called Golden Huts overlooking the River in Pai. A really relaxing place. It was a good choice.

We quickly established ourselves at a bar and had a couple of cheeky cocktails. Dinner followed and then we were given a tip to go to a live music bar called Be Bop... Just down the road... they said... easy to find.... they said... Well.... it wasn't just down the road nor was it easy to find for five people who had no sense of direction.

We walked through the town along the only main road in Pai and bumped into Shani, Ortal and Sigal who looked a little lost. Come to the bar with us... we suggested... little did they know if would be the biggest mistake they made all evening...

So, we set off on our search for Be Bop Bar... We followed the directions carefully... walk along this road and it's on your left... can't be too difficult right... Well.. 20 or so minutes into the walk the buildings stopped and fields began.. We were in the middle of nowhere. Karen decided she would ask one of the locals and picked on a middle aged guy on a moped. She then hopped on the back of his bike and set off into the distance... I asked a load of army guys who were passing in a van and they told us we had to walk 20 minutes in the other direction.. Ooops...

We had a decision to make.. with Karen gone on a joy ride with a middle aged thai guy we had to think about how to find her. Simon and OC went off in search of her while the rest of us trudged (and boy did we trudge) back in the direction of the bar... We couldn't see Be Bop anywhere so gave up and headed to Bamboo Bar and Don't Cry Bar... We walked for a good hour and when we got to Don't Cry, a beer was so needed... All in all it was a good night and we stumbled back to the Golden Huts (or Holden Guts as we were slurring it at that time) at about 4am.

The next day we planned to hire mopeds and take a trip to the waterfall. The other guys set off and John, Sigal, Shani, Ortal and I held on in Pai for a bit. We hired the mopeds and gave them a practice run.. I was a little like Bambi on ice on mine but Ortal jumped on the throttle and shot off uncontrolably. She crashed the bike and slid along the road. Ouch.. She put a brave face on it but we could tell she was shaken so we decided to abandon the moped idea and hung around Pai for the day. It was nice a relaxing so I had no problem doing that.

Sigal, John, Shani and I booked a trek for the next day up to the waterfalls... Little did we know what was in store for us.

We were told the trek went for 5 hours with a break for lunch and up an undulating hill to a viewing area. Trainers would be fine... we were told.

So, the next day, we set off for our trek.... oh my word... it was a nightmare. Basically, the waterfalls we went to see were as picturesque as a spit in the wind. The undulating hills were sheer climbs and sheer drops, the magnificent view was great on the way up but at the top was cloud, nothing more.... it rained which couldn't be helped but I had a minor row with the guide because he wasn't err... guiding.... he was walking off into the distance hitting bushes with his stick leaving the group to struggle to find their own way. The 5 hours walk turned into a 9 hour hike... It was dangerous.. We were walking along untrodden paths that were no more than 6 inches wide with a sheer drop the other side. I've never been so angry or concerned for my safety in my life.

From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


From Pai


Rule of thumb is, don't use Duande Guest House and Travel Company in Pai. They didn't care about our complaints and blamed us for getting upset... It was the worst trek i've ever done.

That night, John and I got a well earned steak and spare ribs... We settled a couple of beers and headed off out... I'll never forget that trek or how worried I was for my well being... Shocking.

The next day we headed back to Chiang Mai. I enjoyed Pai and could have stayed longer but time was against us. We walked around the night bizarre in Chiang Mai and got some dinner before finding a bar near our guest house. We caught up with Simon and OC and had a couple of drinks. I also witnessed and girl fight outside the bar involving two thai girls. They're only small but you wouldn't want to get in the middle of their scuffle... scary....

Today we took the bus to Chiang Khong ahead of our slow boat trip along the Mekong tomorrow in Laos... Can't wait.

15th to 22nd October - Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Sihanoukville was a welcome relief from the constant ream of cities we'd found ourselves in. It was a beach resort, a little touristy bu...