Showing posts with label Jaisalmer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jaisalmer. Show all posts

Thursday, August 6, 2009

5th and 6th August - Jaisalmer

Tuesday we had a free day so a few of us went to the nearby buddhist temple to check it out... it was a steaming hot day again but i'm getting more and more used to the temperature. The temple itself was absolutely boiling inside so needless to say, I stayed for as long as I could last and then headed for the relative sanctuary of the baking sun.... much cooler than the temple....

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


We were relatively easy prey for the waiting stall holders who all beckoned us in to their outlets with promises of cheap prices, good materials and even a shortcut to the hotel which was a novel way of getting tourists into a shop. I did succumb though and ended up buying a Indian style cotton shirt and long trousers for the camel ride the next day... I also got a free useless piece of material that doubled as a bottle holder apparently, which was nice.

Afterward, I took advantage of my troll like aversion to sunlight and spent about 3 hours at the internet cafe uploading photos, avoiding the midday sun. It costs a bloody fortune to upload anything in India... grrr....

That night we went out for dinner just outside the fort of Jaisalmer to a really nice restaurant. Halfway through the meal though, a power cut. The first of my visit to India and what we've now been told is a regular occurrence. It was the Brother and Sister Festival on Tuesday and there always is a power cut when there's a festival on I was told be the locals.

I had an interesting time trying to get my mobile phone credit topped up after this. I went to about ten different kiosks... to call them shops would have been exaggerating a little. It's amazing, as soon as you look interested in something and you ask someone if they do something, they say "Come to my shop" and you say, "Ok, so you do top up credit for mobile phones in your carpet shop right?" and they reply, "My shop Sir"....

You go in and there are lots of carpets... when you pull out your phone and say RPS 500 please they say, "No mobile phone... very nice carpets, you want...." Err... no thanks matey and i'll also have the ten minutes back you just stole from my life....

I finally did get it sorted though... I felt a little like Sylvester Stallone in the film Rocky when he runs through the streets of Philadelphia and a crowd follows him.... I had asked so many people about mobile phone credit that a crowd had built up around this slightly quirky but inherently entertaining English guy.... I went from shop to shop and they followed... I finally arrived at the right place and everyone in my entourage held their breath as I pulled my phone out of my pocket... they gasped as I presented it to the shop keeper.... It was like I was some sort of Pariah giving a sacred scroll to a holy man....

On my way back to the hotel, it struck me that the people of Jaisalmer really do remember everything and everyone... as I passed places I had merely stuck my head in and then walked out again previously the day before, the shop owners greeted me "Ahh Mr England.... Freddie Flintoff" came the cries.... I then came to the entrance to my hotel and popped my head into the material shop next door. I'd asked for a bag to be made to cover my backpack so i can lock it when I go to airports... They managed to make it in 5 hours for 4 pounds to an immaculate standard... amazing...

The next morning was free time so I went to the post office with Milania and Allen. We stopped off for some chai on the way back and then got into a conversation with a guy called Mr Bong who sells Govt Authorised Marijuana cookies to tourists... hilarious...

From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


That afternoon was our camel ride into the Thar desert. It was an amazing experience. I don't remember ever being on a camel and it was certainly an entertaining ride. My camel was called Kalu and had an attitude problem. Of course, why wouldn't he... I have just this sort of luck with animals I meet or ride while on these sorts of trips... In Jaisalmer that morning i'd had an "enormous amount of luck" according to a local shop keeper by skimming the top of a pile of cow shit... I didn't feel lucky, I felt smelly... The offending cow was standing a couple of metres away with a look on its face as if to say.... "Oh yeah... that's the power I wield in this place... tourist".

Anyway, back to Kalu... he got angry when he led the pack. He got angry when he didn't lead the pack. He hated everything... When the guide let go of his rope, he tried to make a break for it... In spite of this, the two hour ride through the desert was great. It was so peaceful and still. A staggering contrast to the cities and towns we'd stayed in. The sun was hot but the cool breeze that swept through the desert was a welcome relief. Also, the trousers and shirt i'd bought were so needed...

From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


We eventually got to the camp and we were literally sleeping on top of a sand dune. There was nothing for miles to see. I went to explore and sat down on my own in a bunker between two dunes. I listed to some classical music and watched the sun set.. It was so relaxing.

From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


That night we had a locally cooked meal by the guides. It was spicy and really tasty. We listened to a bit of music and fell asleep under the stars. We did have a visitor to our camp however, a dog who decided she wanted to guard us overnight... and my what a guard dog it was.. ferocious some would say...

From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


The next morning we rode back to our jeeps and saw wild peacocks as well as land monitors (lizards) crossing our path. We also passed a local village where the women were carrying water from the lake on their heads. We had a race on the camels for the last 20 metres or so and that was exhilarating.

From
From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur


From Jodhpur and Udaipur

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

August 3rd and 4th - Delhi to Jaisalmer

The morning of the 3rd August we had to pack up as we were taking the 19 hour overnight train to Jaisalmer in the afternoon. We stored all of our luggage in the very safe public access walk through internet room (hmmm).... and took a walk around Delhi where we visited some lovely mosques as well as a spice market and a few narrow shopping lanes in Old Delhi.

The smells and sounds of Delhi fascinated me. Well most of them, there were a few that horrified me but that's the juxtaposition you sometimes find yourself in when travelling around.

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


We had some real local Chai in Old Delhi which was great and i've had a fair few of those since then as well. I did find that you pay for everything in India...

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


You want to go into a public mosque... sure Mr Tourist, that will be 30 rupees, you want to take your friend Mr Camera in with you... another 70 rupees... ahh now that you've paid for both and entered the outer area of the mosque we'll let you know you can't come in with those shorts, you'll have to hire a wrap around for 50 rupees....

Great I sighed, as the moths in my wallet thought it was christmas...

Should have got that spring-loaded wallet I saw in Brazil...... would have saved me time...

It was really amazing though, I was glad to have gone into the mosque and even when I had to take my shoes off I still felt happy to be there.

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


That afternoon, we left the hotel at about 3.30pm to get our 5.40pm train. The train station was certainly an experience. There were what seemed like thousands of people milling around, claiming whatever spots of shade were available. Kids stared at us... these strange pale white people with lots of bags...

We placed ourselves in the what turned out to be the worst place in the station and settled in for an hour and a half wait. After stocking up on potentially (we later discovered when hungry on the train) were the worst sandwiches in the world, we then found ourselves being ushered out of the way by two men who wanted to wash the floor at the precise spot we were sitting.... They couldn't have waited.... they couldn't go around.... oh no...

I think we each individually studied the mops they were using.... before deciding not to sit down again... The net result of them washing the floor with those mops was similar to someone washing dishes with an oily rag or cleaning their teeth with an ashtray.... Interesting, I thought...

About ten seconds after the dirty mop bandits left the vacinity, Mr Smiley and his broken duster turned up beckoning towards a door that... surprise surprise, our bags were piled up against... You've got to be kidding I thought.... We had to move all of our bags... he desperately needed to get to what was behind the door with his broken duster at that precise moment....

We formed a chain and moved the bags in a military fashion. Teamwork... nice...

It was time to board the train.... our home for the next 19 or so hours. The cabin was ermmmm... indifferent... Six beds in a long open cabin shared with a fair number of other people including, we later found out, Mr Death Stare, three snorers and The Family Stink.... Lovely.

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


It was suffice to say that Allen (US), Henry (UK), Milania (US), Lorna (UK), James (UK) and I got to know each other pretty well on the trip.

I talked everyone's ears off which is pretty standard for me, the British vs US debate gathered pace (why don't you use U's in your words? do you get commission for using Z's? etc etc) and Mr Death Stare created a fair period of much hilarity for us. He walked passed and I didn't see this but everyone in our group started laughing.. They told me that he walked passed us with such a look of sheer disdain... of surprise and such utter disappointment that it was the funniest thing that everyone had seen for a while. The next few hours were filled with us trying to re-enact the look...

The sleep was reasonable and the rest of the train journey was not as painful as any of us had expected. When we got to Jaisalmer, it was all worth it though.

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


What a beautiful place. An old fort sitting on top of a hill proudly looking down at the city. Our hotel is at the top of the inside of the fort. The view from the rooftop is breathtaking and the food equally so.

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


We had an orientation walk around the city and to the man made reservoir which was just so picturesque.

From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


From Delhi and Jaisalmer


That night, we spent dinner together on the roof terrace overlooking the city and enjoying the gentle and refreshing breeze.

Allan, Milania, James and I decided to sleep up there under the stars.. that was of course until the dogs started barking and the hotel staff started cleaning... I bailed after about an hour and slept in the sanctuary of my room echoing James who had departed a few mins before... Our American cousins however braved it. Good on them.

Next day is a free day for us in Jaisalmer....

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