21st May was my last full day in South America. It was a good day in Cusco as I had my last Spanish lesson as well as some salsa lessons which was fun.
We then went for dinner at a french restaurant where the set menu cost 7 Sols which is about £1.50... Bargain. I got a soup, Spaghetti Bolognaise and a crepe. Get in.
Went out with Lauren and Sarah (UK) from the hostel that night to Mama Africa's, Mythology, Roots and some other bar I've forgotten the name of. It was Sarah's birthday so made for an interesting night. We had a fair few Cuba Libre's and Sarah had a particularly potent cocktail at the first bar.... We got into Mythology and before I knew it, Sarah was dancing on the bar. The barman started spraying a Mango vodka in people's mouths and we passed the point of no return.
We got into Roots and all in all finished the night off well. It was good fun.
The next morning, I got up at 10.30am after getting back at about 6am... I had a flight to catch and my bags to pack... I remember having 100 sols in my pocket the night before and my bankcard.. Could I find them the next morning.... could I buggery... I couldn't believe it. My last night in South America and I've been so safe and careful. The one time I take my backcard out and I bloody lose it.... grrrr... I asked at reception if anyone had handed it in and knew what the response would be. Trouble was, I had to quickly head into town, get some money out with my other card, pay for and collect my laundry, pay for the room to check out, finish packing my back and get in a cab to the airport. I had brekky with Lauren and Sarah and then jumped in a cab to the airport.
I didn't have any time to call HSBC to cancel the card and it was playing on my mind. I got to Cusco airport and called anyone I knew in UK to get me the number for HSBC... Mobile phones are great aren't they.... They ring and ring and you don't have to answer them... Really handy... :) Finally got through and was saved. Thanks Phil you're a star. I flew to Lima, called HSBC and cancelled the card and then jumped on a plane to Madrid. It was an 11 hour flight and went pretty smoothly. I was so knackered it didn't take me long to get to sleep. Nice. Also, I'm loving the Cat Empire 'So many nights'album. It's been a good friend in South America.
Arrived in Madrid feeling surprisingly refreshed. Met Townley at the airport and, aside from a couple of minor directional hiccups on the train, got back to his place smoothly.
We went out for dinner and before I knew it, the time was 8pm. It was completely light out and I'd forgotten what that felt like. I'd forgotten that the nights are much lighter till later over this way. We went out to a fair few bars, I hijacked a hen do and acted as official photographer for about ten mins and then we adopted an Argentinian guy in one of Townley's local bars... There was an interesting exotic dancer at the club we went to which Townley claims "Never happens" and a good night was had by all.
Sunday 24th May was an interesting day travel wise.... I flew from Madrid to Faro.... via London. Why? I'll tell you why, it's cause I'm an idiot. 7 hours to do a 1 hour journey. Oops. Anyway, got to my mum's feeling a little dishevelled but happy to be in one place for more than four days.
Spent all day by the pool today (25th May) and went out for dinner. Going to be nice and quiet over the next week or so I suspect. Oh and I found my damn bankcard in my bag along with the cash.... Grrrrr....
Monday, May 25, 2009
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Day 50 - Cusco
Coming to the end of my time in South America. I´ve really had an amazing time. Each place i´ve been to has had something utterly unique about it and I will definitely return here someday.
Just winding down now really. Yesterday I had my Spanish lesson and then had dinner at a Mexican restaurant. I met two girls who are about to do the Lares Trail so I helped them out with some info and then took them to the shop I bought my fleece from. The fleece I now refer to as the fleece of life for if I didn´t have it on the trek I think I would have frozen to death.
Last night I met Evan (Ireland) and Adam and Loken (Israel). We just stayed in the Hostel bar and had a quiet one. Everyone seemed to be suffering from a big one the previous night. Accept for Ryan of course. He´s from Northern Ireland and I can´t say that i´ve ever seen him sobre. He´s hilarious. Last night he went out to a club carrying a metre long candle. An interesting accessory I thought. I could imagine the bouncers at the club really pondering whether a candle was something you shouldn´t bring in to the club. This morning he woke up in someone elses bed, they moved to his bed and he picked up the candle and said:
"Where did this come from?"
I said: "Life must be full of surprises for you Ryan, you must wake up each morning in amazement at the latest tacky souvenir purchase you made the night before..."
"It´s true" he said as he picked up a clown mask made of felt material and looked at it curiously.... "Where did this come from...." he said.
Classic. Two nights ago we had to carry him to the dorm because he was insistent the bar should stay open.... Four of us tried to lift him into bed... it was an interesting experience.
Today, I have my final Spanish lesson and then I go to some Salsa lessons. Tonight is my last official night in South America so I´ve got to go out I think. It´s only right.... we´ll see...
Just winding down now really. Yesterday I had my Spanish lesson and then had dinner at a Mexican restaurant. I met two girls who are about to do the Lares Trail so I helped them out with some info and then took them to the shop I bought my fleece from. The fleece I now refer to as the fleece of life for if I didn´t have it on the trek I think I would have frozen to death.
Last night I met Evan (Ireland) and Adam and Loken (Israel). We just stayed in the Hostel bar and had a quiet one. Everyone seemed to be suffering from a big one the previous night. Accept for Ryan of course. He´s from Northern Ireland and I can´t say that i´ve ever seen him sobre. He´s hilarious. Last night he went out to a club carrying a metre long candle. An interesting accessory I thought. I could imagine the bouncers at the club really pondering whether a candle was something you shouldn´t bring in to the club. This morning he woke up in someone elses bed, they moved to his bed and he picked up the candle and said:
"Where did this come from?"
I said: "Life must be full of surprises for you Ryan, you must wake up each morning in amazement at the latest tacky souvenir purchase you made the night before..."
"It´s true" he said as he picked up a clown mask made of felt material and looked at it curiously.... "Where did this come from...." he said.
Classic. Two nights ago we had to carry him to the dorm because he was insistent the bar should stay open.... Four of us tried to lift him into bed... it was an interesting experience.
Today, I have my final Spanish lesson and then I go to some Salsa lessons. Tonight is my last official night in South America so I´ve got to go out I think. It´s only right.... we´ll see...
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Day 48 and 49 - Cusco (18th and 19th May)
It´s getting a tad parky in Cusco. Glad I bought that fleece for 15 pounds the other day. Wise purchase indeed. Temperature must be in single figures in the evenings. Brrrr
So, I´m really just biding my time in Cusco until I fly to Madrid on Friday. I´ve had 8 hours of spanish lessons so far and it´s starting to make more sense. It´s always difficult trying to learn a new language when you chat to English speaking people all of the time so I need to force myself to chat to only Spanish speaking people to help me practice.
I met Kate from UK at my hotel on Monday so we went out for dinner that evening. A quiet dinner turned into a few drinks at Paddy´s Irish Pub where we met Georgie and Arturo (from my trek group) as well as a few others. This then turned into yet more drinks at a club called Mama Africas and another club called Mythology... Another 3am finish..... Still it was good fun.
Tuesday I didn´t really do much... had a four hour Spanish lesson and then I changed hostels and am now staying in the Loki Hostel. It´s just a big party place essentially. Good fun though... We went out last night for a few drinks and ended up at Mama Africas and Mythology again. 5.30am finish this time. Am feeling a little worse for wear today but have done my Spanish homework so roll on another 4 hour lesson.
Hasta Leugo Amigos...
So, I´m really just biding my time in Cusco until I fly to Madrid on Friday. I´ve had 8 hours of spanish lessons so far and it´s starting to make more sense. It´s always difficult trying to learn a new language when you chat to English speaking people all of the time so I need to force myself to chat to only Spanish speaking people to help me practice.
I met Kate from UK at my hotel on Monday so we went out for dinner that evening. A quiet dinner turned into a few drinks at Paddy´s Irish Pub where we met Georgie and Arturo (from my trek group) as well as a few others. This then turned into yet more drinks at a club called Mama Africas and another club called Mythology... Another 3am finish..... Still it was good fun.
Tuesday I didn´t really do much... had a four hour Spanish lesson and then I changed hostels and am now staying in the Loki Hostel. It´s just a big party place essentially. Good fun though... We went out last night for a few drinks and ended up at Mama Africas and Mythology again. 5.30am finish this time. Am feeling a little worse for wear today but have done my Spanish homework so roll on another 4 hour lesson.
Hasta Leugo Amigos...
Monday, May 18, 2009
Day 47 - Machu Picchu (17th May)
Wow.... that´s all I can say.... wow...
I went out for dinner on the evening of the 16th with the gang from the trek... it was our tour leader Bobby´s birthday so we had a bit of a celebration. Early wake up call the next morning at 4.45am soon put paid to too late a night.
Still, we were based in Aguas Calientes about a 30min bus ride from Machu Picchu and I was nervous with anticipation of what I would feel and experience.... I only managed about four or five hours sleep which is kind of on a par for the last few weeks....
We got to the bus stop the next morning and the queue was huge... being English... I felt so much at home. Aahh the delights of the queue, so comforting. We got on the bus at 5.30am and started the journey up the mountain... About 20mins into it an explosive vision appeared to my right... the incredible sight of Machu Picchu (which means old mountain btw) Wow.... it was breathtaking.
You can´t help but feel something when you see this amazing sanctuary for the first time. I felt awe, it was magnificent.
We stopped at the entrance just next to the $800 a night hotel outside of the main entrance... oh well, I was always expecting some element of commercialism here (my Chicken sandwich at lunch was about 5 pounds, compared to 2 pounds in other places i´d visited).
When we got in we made a speedy trek to pick up tickets to climb Waynu Picchu (young mountain) which stands adjacent to Machu Picchu. Only 400 are available. Unfortunately, my blisters from my trekking exploits got the better of me so I decided not to climb. Taran very kindly took the camera up to share the experience.
We then headed up to the Guard House at the top of Machu Picchu to watch the sun rise above the mountain and illuminate the buildings below...
It was a real privilege to see the sun appear above the mountains. I have to admit that I pulled my iPod out and listened to Mascagni - Cavelleria Rusticana (from The Godfather), Pachelbel - Kanon in D minor and Albinoni - Adagio in Sol Minore. I don´t know why but it just felt right to see the sun lighting up Machu Picchu to the sound of inspirational classical music... I was totally lost in the scene. I was sat on a rock, my left elbow on my knee, left hand on my cheek gazing in absolute awe at what was unfolding below me...
The tour was excellent. Our guide talked with passion and authority about Machu Picchu, how it was a sanctuary and not a city, the theories behind why it wasn´t finished, the story behind the rediscovery of the place by Hiram Bingham and how years before a German guy made the same discovery... incredible.
The way the Inca´s set about building such masterpieces is also fascinating. The accuracy of how they cut the stones to create the buildings...
the perfection that they sought in the numerous terraces that adorn the main living areas to protect the mountain from erosion.
We spent six or seven hours at Machu Picchu with a good hour of that spent just soaking up the vision of the place.
We left at about 12.30pm to get the train back to Ollantaytampo and then the bus back to Cusco.
We arrived around 6pm last night and planned to go out for some drinks... exhaustion got the better of us around midnight and I was very pleased to be in my hotel bed in Cusco...
Today, I signed up for 15 hours of intensive Spanish lessons... Should be interesting... My time in South America is coming to an end but I already know that this beautiful and diverse continent and I will not be strangers for long.....
I went out for dinner on the evening of the 16th with the gang from the trek... it was our tour leader Bobby´s birthday so we had a bit of a celebration. Early wake up call the next morning at 4.45am soon put paid to too late a night.
Still, we were based in Aguas Calientes about a 30min bus ride from Machu Picchu and I was nervous with anticipation of what I would feel and experience.... I only managed about four or five hours sleep which is kind of on a par for the last few weeks....
We got to the bus stop the next morning and the queue was huge... being English... I felt so much at home. Aahh the delights of the queue, so comforting. We got on the bus at 5.30am and started the journey up the mountain... About 20mins into it an explosive vision appeared to my right... the incredible sight of Machu Picchu (which means old mountain btw) Wow.... it was breathtaking.
You can´t help but feel something when you see this amazing sanctuary for the first time. I felt awe, it was magnificent.
We stopped at the entrance just next to the $800 a night hotel outside of the main entrance... oh well, I was always expecting some element of commercialism here (my Chicken sandwich at lunch was about 5 pounds, compared to 2 pounds in other places i´d visited).
When we got in we made a speedy trek to pick up tickets to climb Waynu Picchu (young mountain) which stands adjacent to Machu Picchu. Only 400 are available. Unfortunately, my blisters from my trekking exploits got the better of me so I decided not to climb. Taran very kindly took the camera up to share the experience.
We then headed up to the Guard House at the top of Machu Picchu to watch the sun rise above the mountain and illuminate the buildings below...
It was a real privilege to see the sun appear above the mountains. I have to admit that I pulled my iPod out and listened to Mascagni - Cavelleria Rusticana (from The Godfather), Pachelbel - Kanon in D minor and Albinoni - Adagio in Sol Minore. I don´t know why but it just felt right to see the sun lighting up Machu Picchu to the sound of inspirational classical music... I was totally lost in the scene. I was sat on a rock, my left elbow on my knee, left hand on my cheek gazing in absolute awe at what was unfolding below me...
The tour was excellent. Our guide talked with passion and authority about Machu Picchu, how it was a sanctuary and not a city, the theories behind why it wasn´t finished, the story behind the rediscovery of the place by Hiram Bingham and how years before a German guy made the same discovery... incredible.
The way the Inca´s set about building such masterpieces is also fascinating. The accuracy of how they cut the stones to create the buildings...
the perfection that they sought in the numerous terraces that adorn the main living areas to protect the mountain from erosion.
We spent six or seven hours at Machu Picchu with a good hour of that spent just soaking up the vision of the place.
We left at about 12.30pm to get the train back to Ollantaytampo and then the bus back to Cusco.
We arrived around 6pm last night and planned to go out for some drinks... exhaustion got the better of us around midnight and I was very pleased to be in my hotel bed in Cusco...
Today, I signed up for 15 hours of intensive Spanish lessons... Should be interesting... My time in South America is coming to an end but I already know that this beautiful and diverse continent and I will not be strangers for long.....
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Day 44 - 46 - The Lares Trail
So, we started the Lares Trail... three hours of walking mainly uphill climbing almost 800 metres...
I´m not going to lie to you.. the first two hours were absolute agony. I had nothing to eat apart from a bread roll all day.. I was living on no sleep and I was feeling terrible... I almost gave up.. I really did... I was so close to asking for the horse to take me to the camp.. It got to the stage where I could walk for maybe 20 paces and then I had to stop and take a break. Pathetic huh. But then thanks to the power of Gatorade and also Cynthia´s encouragement I got through it. The last hour, I had my ninth or tenth wind and walked at some pace to the camp... the feeling when I got there was one of amazement. I couldn´t believe it. I think it was the most difficult challenge i´ve ever had to overcome... It sounds dramatic but it was really tough. I went straight to my tent and collapsed for the night. Oh.... I saw a humming bird on the trek too and possibly a condor (it was far away).
The next morning (15th May)... after 12 hours of rest... we faced our biggest challenge. Four hours of hiking, climbing to a mind numbing 4,600 metres. I felt so much better.. I managed some breakfast, did my stretches... I did... honest... i´m 33after all... the knees aren´t what they used to be..., and then we set off.
The scenery was amazing.... we passed lots of local kids and I´d bought with me some pencils and notepads to give out.. It felt very special.. I walked at a decent pace and we were well ahead of schedule at our first stop... the trail was getting steeper and steeper but the end was in sight... I got to within 50 metres or so of the peak, breathing was a little difficult... I rested for about 5 mins and then ran the final bit...
I really wanted to do it to for no other reason than to satisfy my curiosity that I still could. It felt amazing. I got to the top and I felt like the only person in the world.
I have never been through anything like that before. I really thought I wouldn´t be able to do it. For me, it was such a special moment and an achievement I never thought i´d be able to make.
The trek down to the camp was a little treacherous with the loose stones and steep declines but well worth it.
We got to camp ahead of schedule all feeling pretty happy with ourselves and Rambo, a dog that belonged to one of the porters, even came up to me for a little pat... He´s usually stand off-ish. It was my second achievement of the day.
That night I had some dinner... we played the card game asshole... I avoided being the asshole and then I slept like a baby..
Today, we travelled by train to Aguas Calientes (Hot water) and I had a hot shower... hot shower... a blessing from the gods after three days on the road/trail.
Anyway, we´re going out for dinner tonight and then Machu Picchu tomorrow. Can´t wait.
I´m not going to lie to you.. the first two hours were absolute agony. I had nothing to eat apart from a bread roll all day.. I was living on no sleep and I was feeling terrible... I almost gave up.. I really did... I was so close to asking for the horse to take me to the camp.. It got to the stage where I could walk for maybe 20 paces and then I had to stop and take a break. Pathetic huh. But then thanks to the power of Gatorade and also Cynthia´s encouragement I got through it. The last hour, I had my ninth or tenth wind and walked at some pace to the camp... the feeling when I got there was one of amazement. I couldn´t believe it. I think it was the most difficult challenge i´ve ever had to overcome... It sounds dramatic but it was really tough. I went straight to my tent and collapsed for the night. Oh.... I saw a humming bird on the trek too and possibly a condor (it was far away).
The next morning (15th May)... after 12 hours of rest... we faced our biggest challenge. Four hours of hiking, climbing to a mind numbing 4,600 metres. I felt so much better.. I managed some breakfast, did my stretches... I did... honest... i´m 33after all... the knees aren´t what they used to be..., and then we set off.
The scenery was amazing.... we passed lots of local kids and I´d bought with me some pencils and notepads to give out.. It felt very special.. I walked at a decent pace and we were well ahead of schedule at our first stop... the trail was getting steeper and steeper but the end was in sight... I got to within 50 metres or so of the peak, breathing was a little difficult... I rested for about 5 mins and then ran the final bit...
I really wanted to do it to for no other reason than to satisfy my curiosity that I still could. It felt amazing. I got to the top and I felt like the only person in the world.
I have never been through anything like that before. I really thought I wouldn´t be able to do it. For me, it was such a special moment and an achievement I never thought i´d be able to make.
The trek down to the camp was a little treacherous with the loose stones and steep declines but well worth it.
We got to camp ahead of schedule all feeling pretty happy with ourselves and Rambo, a dog that belonged to one of the porters, even came up to me for a little pat... He´s usually stand off-ish. It was my second achievement of the day.
That night I had some dinner... we played the card game asshole... I avoided being the asshole and then I slept like a baby..
Today, we travelled by train to Aguas Calientes (Hot water) and I had a hot shower... hot shower... a blessing from the gods after three days on the road/trail.
Anyway, we´re going out for dinner tonight and then Machu Picchu tomorrow. Can´t wait.
Day 43 cont and 44 - Ollantaytambo (13th and 14th May)
So, after Chinchero we went to Ollantaytambo to see the Inca ruins on the mountain. What a picture postcard place... So beautiful.
That night.... oh dear... Don´t want to be too descriptive here guys but let´s just say that the night before my big trek starts... the absolute last thing I want to happen... the heavens opened in my bathroom.... yes.... I was spray painting the royal doulton for most of the night... I got no sleep and felt like crap.... food poisoning.
The next morning, 14th May, I was advised to have some black tea and lots of gatorade... I met my other tour group and got on the minibus, almost certain I was coming straight back as soon as the next wave of food poisoning came over me... The good thing about the trip from Ollantaytembo to Lares was that it was 3 hours in a minibus over a bumpy stoney road. Perfect... thanks God... we did stop in a couple of places with squat toilets... It was close to becoming my perfect day.
On the way we stopped off at a place with hot springs... I actually felt a little better and went for a dip. Got out and felt like someone was exploding fire crackers in my belly... bwwrrrrrerrr (don´t even know what sound that makes)
Cynthia, our wonderful tour guide suggested I drink some Oregano tea.... It will settle your stomach... our honest and very caring tour guide told me.. Really, It looks like Castor Oil... are you sure... I said.
Of course, said the honest and nurturing tour leader.... So, I got into it... Ummm this is quite nice, I said...
Then.... three quarters of the way through... I uttered the words... oh jesus... the feeling was like a volcano exploding in my stomach.... I ran to somewhere of relative quiet and promptly threw up four times.... right into the water source of the local community.. Nice one sunshine.. way to improve anglo-peruvian relations...
I made a hasty exit and felt incredibly much better but vowing never to trust Cynthia again..
Next stop.... the Lares Trail...
That night.... oh dear... Don´t want to be too descriptive here guys but let´s just say that the night before my big trek starts... the absolute last thing I want to happen... the heavens opened in my bathroom.... yes.... I was spray painting the royal doulton for most of the night... I got no sleep and felt like crap.... food poisoning.
The next morning, 14th May, I was advised to have some black tea and lots of gatorade... I met my other tour group and got on the minibus, almost certain I was coming straight back as soon as the next wave of food poisoning came over me... The good thing about the trip from Ollantaytembo to Lares was that it was 3 hours in a minibus over a bumpy stoney road. Perfect... thanks God... we did stop in a couple of places with squat toilets... It was close to becoming my perfect day.
On the way we stopped off at a place with hot springs... I actually felt a little better and went for a dip. Got out and felt like someone was exploding fire crackers in my belly... bwwrrrrrerrr (don´t even know what sound that makes)
Cynthia, our wonderful tour guide suggested I drink some Oregano tea.... It will settle your stomach... our honest and very caring tour guide told me.. Really, It looks like Castor Oil... are you sure... I said.
Of course, said the honest and nurturing tour leader.... So, I got into it... Ummm this is quite nice, I said...
Then.... three quarters of the way through... I uttered the words... oh jesus... the feeling was like a volcano exploding in my stomach.... I ran to somewhere of relative quiet and promptly threw up four times.... right into the water source of the local community.. Nice one sunshine.. way to improve anglo-peruvian relations...
I made a hasty exit and felt incredibly much better but vowing never to trust Cynthia again..
Next stop.... the Lares Trail...
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Days 43 - Chinchero (13th May)
Forgive me blog but it has been 3 days or so since my last entry.... my excuse... I have been up on a mountain... or quite a few mountains actually since we last entertained each other...
So, Day 43 was 13th May... we went to the Sacred Valley and saw people making textiles, chocolate, ceramics etc...
(There's more dye making videos on my YouTube page. You can access them when you click through to the others.)
I also had my first taste of Guinea Pig.... I know, I know.... poor little fluffy guinea pigs but truth be told, I had one as a pet as a youngster and all the bugger did for me was piss on my leg and die of frost so while there was some guilt attached.... it passed pretty quickly.
Tasted like chicken.... doesn´t everything strange like that...
Person 1: "I had rabbit the other day..."
Person 2: "What did it taste like?"
Person 1: "A little bit like chicken."
Person 1: "I ate pigeon the other day.."
Person 2: "What did it taste like?
Person 1: "A little bit like chicken."
Andy: "I had Guinea Pig the other day."
Someone who is reading this (I know you´re out there): "Really, what did it taste like?"
Andy: "Err Chicken... the most common taste of meat on the planet."
We actually went to another town in the Sacred Valley to watch the chocolate and ceramics making... on the local bus there we heard the sound of cats coming out of a bag... honest...
So, Day 43 was 13th May... we went to the Sacred Valley and saw people making textiles, chocolate, ceramics etc...
(There's more dye making videos on my YouTube page. You can access them when you click through to the others.)
I also had my first taste of Guinea Pig.... I know, I know.... poor little fluffy guinea pigs but truth be told, I had one as a pet as a youngster and all the bugger did for me was piss on my leg and die of frost so while there was some guilt attached.... it passed pretty quickly.
Tasted like chicken.... doesn´t everything strange like that...
Person 1: "I had rabbit the other day..."
Person 2: "What did it taste like?"
Person 1: "A little bit like chicken."
Person 1: "I ate pigeon the other day.."
Person 2: "What did it taste like?
Person 1: "A little bit like chicken."
Andy: "I had Guinea Pig the other day."
Someone who is reading this (I know you´re out there): "Really, what did it taste like?"
Andy: "Err Chicken... the most common taste of meat on the planet."
We actually went to another town in the Sacred Valley to watch the chocolate and ceramics making... on the local bus there we heard the sound of cats coming out of a bag... honest...
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